We can assess hair attributes such as:
Body
Using our proprietary ring method, we measure tress compression energies and relate them to a formulation's ability to increase body, volume, or texture.
Bounce & Resilience
Torsion studies, which can be made at ambient humidity, add information about viscous dissipation and storage modulus of the fibre. A high storage modulus, for example, will translate to desired attributes of flowing, swingy, or movable hairstyles.
Coating - Product Deposition
Microfluorometry is used to characterize product deposition on the surface of the fibre. The TRI/SCAN™ Surface Force Analyzer measures uniformity of a compound on the fibre surface. These techniques can measure evenness of distribution and the thickness of the coating all along the hair fibre.
In addition, we use a PC-based imaging system including video playback that is very useful for studying the interactions of fluids with single or crossed hair fibres. The instrument has been used to observe the interactions of hair fibres with hairspray and shine sprays.
Colour Retention/Fading
Colour change or dye fading from effects such as shampooing, sunlight or chemicals is quantified using a spectrophotometer.
Curl Retention
We can test the efficacy of perming formulations and styling fixatives. Also, how well fixatives function to give hair shape, style and control.
Diffusion of Product into the Hair Fibre
Diffusion of products can be measured using microfluorometry or TOF-SIMS (Time of flight secondary ion mass spectrometry). Diffusion of any substance into the hair fibre can be seen and quantified over time.
Flyaway Reduction
A Faraday Cage measures static charge and is used to test the anti-static properties of products.
Heating Profiles
By placing a thermocouple in a heat tress, the temperature profile during heat treatments can be measured. We can then study the effect of extreme heat on properties like resilience, strength and hair health.
Holding Ability
Measuring the force required to separate bonded hair fibres using a very sensitive microbalance will give information about the hold strength of hair fixatives.
Manageability
Combing force measurements demonstrate a product's efficacy in increasing combing ease and decreasing tangles.
Moisturising Ability
Our Dynamic Vapor Sorption™ analyser provides sorption/desorption isotherms which determine the moisture retention ability of various moisturising agents.
Product Build-up
Microfluorometry is used to characterize build-up on the surface of the fibre which can weigh hair down. The TRI/SCAN™ Surface Force Analyzer measures uniformity of a compound on the fibre surface and build-up. These techniques can measure the location and amount of product deposited all along the hair fibre and evaluate products for removal of build-up.
Shine
A light scattering goniophotometer can measure lustre values of both single hair fibres and tresses. This translates to consumer perception of shine and gloss.
Smoothness & Sleekness
Interfibre friction studies illustrate the improvement to the hair surface from product applications. The lower the interfibre friction, the smoother hair will look and feel - less frizzy. In addition, the TRI/SCAN™ Surface Force Analyzer calculates surface energy of fibres which is a very sensitive measure of hair health.
Softness
Using our proprietary ring method, we measure tress compression energies and frictional forces and relate them to a formulation's ability to increase softness.
Strength
The TRI/Hair Fatigue Tester™ quantifies improvement in strength of fibres by cycling the application of a preset weight to 60 hair samples concurrently and measuring cycles to failure for each specimen. Also, we generate stress-strain curves for dry or wet hair and calculate parameters that characterize the mechanical properties of hair, such as work to extend and work to break.
Surface Modification
Very subtle changes in the surface of a hair fibre can be examined using Scanning Electron Microscopy. For example, scientists have shown how wet combing causes the cuticle cells of hair fibres to chip off, exposing the weaker cortex beneath. This leads to lower strength, shine, and resilience. Other examples of surface modification include fusing of cuticle cells from UV damage, product deposition, and chemical damage.
We also perform hair loss studies.
Female Baldness Grading Scale
